Every adventure traveler and history buff needs to make a visit to amazing Egypt. Cathy and I did our visit in 1999, as part 1 of our 3 part anniversary trip that also included a safari to Kenya and a transatlantic crossing on the Queen Elizabeth II. In our case, we visit the Pyramids, walk the Nile at midnight, encounter whirling dervishs in the Grand Bazaar, take the infamous night train to Luxor, party with aide workers on a Nile River cruise, and lay over in Aswan during a blinding sandstorm off the Sahara Desert during an eclipse.
We start with the Pyramids (of course)
We spend our first few days in Cairo with a personal driver and a guide / archeologist. Even though the pyramids are beckoning, we start in the Egyptian Museum to be schooled on what we are about to see. Then we visit the Pyramids and the Great Sphinx of Giza. While walking around the base of the Great Pyramid, we think about the amazing civilization that found it necessary to build these edifices. Then it is almost mystical to walk through the tunnel into the tombs in the center of the Great Pyramid.
Nile at midnight
Our hotel is located beside the Nile River. The daytime temperatures are hovering around 40 degrees celsius under an unrelenting sun. After a late Thursday night dinner, Cathy and I decide to take a stroll along the Nile in the somewhat cooler temperature. It seems half of Cairo is out walking. We have never encountered such friendly people. The young men in the picture swarm past us and climb a lion statue for a group pose. Later, we are invited to a wedding celebration.
Whirling Dervishs in Cairo’s Grand Bazaar
Cairo is very big and busy city. It is very entertaining to walk the narrow streets and people watch.
Cathy and I are feeling quite comfortable and so go it alone to the Grand Bazaar with only two instructions. Come back to the entrance in 2 hours and do not take pictures, rather stay in the background as much as possible. We expect to see the many small shops, however we do not expect to come across a crowd of the faithful from the country side entranced by several whirling dervishes. When we exit the bazaar, our driver is amazed and horrified that we saw the dervishes, and relieved that we were not attacked as outsiders to this significant event. Interesting to us because we did not sense any danger.
Night train to Luxor
The night train to Luxor is infamous for the 1997 Luxor Massacre of 62 tourists. We take this same train two years later to join our Nile River cruise. We depart from the Cairo Central Station and there see the underbelly of Cairo. There are many destitute folk around and we quickly board our train. Once the train leaves Cairo, it seems to be ‘pedal to the metal’. Once bunked down, it feels like you are going to get ejected through the window on some of the rougher sections of track.
Partying on our Nile river cruise
From Luxor, we board a Nile riverboat to cruise to Aswan. This is a multiday trip. Lots of time to be on-deck enjoying warm breezes and gin & tonics. Along the way we see the narrow band of population and farming alongside the river. In parts, the sand dunes of the Sahara Desert come right to the water. We visit the Valley of the Kings and other temple ruins along the way. It is remarkable to see some of the original color drawings still intact on the stone walls.
One thing we discover is that it is difficult to get a photo of the ruins. Immediately when you set up a photo, several locals run into the frame. If you take the photo, then they expect to be paid a small amount as compensation for having taken part of their soul. The trick is to aim to the right or left, and as they run that way, then quickly swing into the centre to take the picture you want. The fellow who is crashing this picture figures out the drill, and we all have a good laugh.
We also learn that aide workers know how to party when on leave and they are happy to include us. This group is on our cruise on leave from work in I believe Sudan. We have a good time.
Eclipse and Sahara sandstorm in Aswan
We get to Aswan and our plan is to fly over to the Abu Simbel Temples. We never make it because a huge sandstorm blows in from the Sahara Desert and all flights are grounded. For those of us from snowy climates, this sandstorm is like a snow white-out except it is yellow sand. We finally fly out later in the day however back to Cairo.
What interests us is that a full eclipse is happening at the same time. There is huge concern by the authorities that local folks may damage their eyesight by looking directly at the sun during the eclipse. The imams are instructing everyone to stay inside. The sandstorm is like a divine intervention as the eclipse cannot be seen.
Day trip to Alexandria
With our driver and our guide, we do a day trip to Alexandria to complete our visit to amazing Egypt. Founded by Alexander the Great around 300 B.C., this city is in the Nile Delta fronting on the Mediterraneam Sea. Before Rome rose to prominence, Alexandria was the largest city of the ancient world and the intellectual and cultural centre of the Hellenistic age. Cathy and I walk the old fort walls and check out the Catacombs considered to be one of the Seven Wonders of the Middle Ages.
As a footnote, we did our visit to amazing Egypt as a guided tour through Thomas Cook . Though advertised as a small group tour, it turned out to be just Cathy and me, with a personal driver and a personal guide / archeologist. Amazing!